Pollux and Castor – 4000m Peaks in the Alps
Pollux (4,091 m): rises between Porta Nera and Colle di Verra, marking the watershed between Valle d’Aosta and Valais. Seen from every side as an ice cone with some rocky ribs.
Castor (4,225 m): colossal and refined mountain with a long, sinuous ridge, its summit towers over the northern head of Val d’Ayas at the Swiss border, protected to the south by Punta Perazzi, part of a prestigious series of 4000m peaks.
Climbing both peaks represents a complete, technical, and thrilling ascent across different terrains in a spectacular environment.
Programme
Day 1: Use a jeep to reach Piano di Verra from Champoluc, saving significant elevation gain. From upper Piano di Verra (2,300 m), ascend the moraine dividing the glaciers, passing Rifugio Mezzalama, then continue along the ridge to reach the glacier tongue beneath the spur hosting Rifugio Guide d’Ayas. The final steep section is aided by fixed structures, ladders, and walkways to reach 3,400 m.
Day 2: Quickly reach the Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra, rope up, and traverse moderately, navigating crevasses toward the col separating Castor from Pollux. Depending on glacier conditions, veer left toward Porta Nera at the base of Pollux.
Ascend Pollux on mixed terrain and rock (max II°), partially equipped with fixed chains near the top. Final snow ridge requires crampons to reach the summit. Descend via the same route.
From Colle dei Gemelli, tackle the steep west slope of Castor, zigzagging according to crevasses and slope (45°–50°). After the terminal crevasse, reach the sharp north ridge turning right to the summit.
Descend along the southeast ridge toward Colle Felik, where the glacier widens and slope decreases, then proceed to Rifugio Quintino Sella, passing left of Punta Perazzi. From the hut, descend a sharp and exposed ridge (equipped), which gradually eases, reaching Colle Bettaforca. Jeep transfer returns to Champoluc. Alternative descent: from the summit back to Rifugio Guide d’Ayas.
Technical Details
Difficulty: PD+
Elevation gain: Day 1 ↑ 1,100 m, Day 2 ↑ 1,200 m
Elevation loss: ↓ 1,500 m
Approximate duration: Day 1 ↑ 4 h, Day 2 ↑ 6 h, descent 5 h
Required fitness: good physical and mental condition, accustomed to multi-day classical alpinism
Included / Not Included
Included:
Logistical organization
Instruction and guidance by a Mountain Guide
Use of shared safety equipment
Not included:
Transfers, lifts, jeep rides
Food and accommodation of the Mountain Guide
Anything not listed under “Included”
Where
11020 Champoluc AO, Italia
