Monte Digrazia, normal route

Mount Disgrazia is a 3,678-metre peak in the Western Rhaetian Alps, located between Val Masino and Val Malenco. The route first climbed by the early alpinists on the Preda Rossa Glacier, the North-West Ridge, is the easiest and is considered the Normal Route. It is a rewarding climb that alternates rock and ice. While it does not present major technical difficulties, it follows an exposed ridge and requires endurance and solid alpine experience.

Mount Disgrazia is a demanding peak, requiring alpine skills on both glacier and rock. Regardless of the chosen approach, good physical conditioning is essential due to the length and elevation gain of its routes.

PROGRAMME:

Day 1: From the Predarossa parking area, follow the valley-floor trail that crosses the entire plain. Then ascend the final section among large granite boulders to reach the rocky knoll where Rifugio Ponti stands, where we will spend the night (approx. 2 hours 15 minutes).

DETAILS:

• Starting altitude:

  1,950 m

• Hut altitude:

  2,559 m

• Elevation gain:

  600 m

• Exposure:

  south

• Hiking difficulty:

  E

Day 2: From Rifugio Ponti, follow a nearly level trail heading northeast toward the imposing right lateral moraine, reaching the Predarossa Glacier. Once on the glacier and roped together, ascend carefully, paying attention to several treacherous crevasses, up to the Sella di Pioda.

Continue along the crest of the West Ridge of Mount Disgrazia, with rock passages up to UIAA grade III and snowy sections. The ridge is very airy and exposed. A final stretch of sharp ridge leads to the summit, marked by an iron IGM column. Descent follows the same route as the ascent.

DETAILS:

• Elevation gain:

  +1,150 m

• Starting altitude:

  2,559 m

• Summit altitude:

  3,678 m

• Exposure:

  south

• Alpine difficulty:

  AD- / UIAA grade III

Required fitness level: good physical and mental condition, with aerobic training suitable for 1,200 m of positive elevation gain.

The fee includes: logistical organization, instruction and guiding by a Mountain Guide, and use of shared safety equipment. The fee does not include: travel expenses, food and accommodation expenses of the Mountain Guide, and anything not listed under “The fee includes.”