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Kuffner Mont Maudit

The Kuffner Ridge is a legend among the classic Mont Blanc climbs. Exposed and airy, it traverses a harsh high-mountain environment with incredible views of the Brenva face and the Aiguilles du Diable.

Kuffner Mont Maudit

Kuffner Ridge: A Legendary Mont Blanc Climb

In a hypothetical ranking of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps, the Kuffner Ridge would surely be among the top. A long, sustained climb that is never trivial yet never extreme.

PROGRAM:

Day 1: Meet the guide and transfer to Courmayeur. Equipment review and ascent via the Skyway cable cars of Punta Helbronner to Rifugio Torino (3,375 m). Dinner and overnight stay.

Day 2: Summit ascent. Departure at 3:00 a.m. from Rifugio Torino, crossing the upper section of the Glacier du Géant to reach the steep couloir leading to the ridge crest. From here, the real challenges begin on continuously exposed terrain with difficult rock steps. A final, gentler ridge leads to the summit of Mont Maudit (4,465 m). Descent follows the normal Mont Blanc route to Aiguille du Midi, then via cable cars back to Courmayeur.

Elevation gain: 1,500 m (1,200 + 300 m) – Elevation loss: 1,140 m (200 + 940 m) Total duration: approx. 12 hours

Climb information: From Rifugio Torino, the first part of the route is on glacier. Once the terminal crevasse is crossed and the ridge crest gained, the climb continues for about 700 m of elevation gain, alternating exposed ice and snow sections with slopes up to 50° and difficult rock steps up to grade IV near P. Androsace (4,107 m). On the summit, the route joins the French normal route of Mont Blanc via Col Maudit and the Tacul shoulder. Difficulty: D

Requirements: Good physical fitness, endurance, and basic experience with ice axe and crampon techniques.

The fee includes: Logistical organization, guidance and instruction by a certified Alpine Guide, use of shared safety equipment

The fee does not include: Transfer costs, lifts, meals, accommodation for the Alpine Guide, and anything not specified under “The fee includes.”

Where

11013 Courmayeur AO, Italia

Difficulty
High
Group size
Max 1 person

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