Breithorn traverse

PROGRAM

Day 1: Take the lifts to Testa Grigia in Cervinia and spend the night at the Rifugio Guide del Cervino.

Day 2: Early in the morning, ascend along the ski slopes to reach Colle dei Breithorn at 3,831 m. Leaving the popular track of the normal route of the Western Breithorn, descend eastward with some ups and downs until reaching a prominent dark tower. Pass it, then climb a small gully and continue aided by some fixed ropes to reach Bivacco Rossi-Volante at 3,750 m (approx. 2 hours).

From the bivouac, climb over rocks until reaching snow, then follow the wide snow slope (40°) to regain the watershed ridge. Turning right leads to the summit of Roccia Nera (4,075 m). To the left begins the traverse, which remains on the ridge.

Over mixed terrain, reach the Twin of the Eastern Breithorn (4,106 m), then descend the opposite side with some delicate steps to reach a fixed abseil. Two 20-meter rappels overcome a small rock wall, continuing to a smooth slab that precedes the summit of the Eastern Breithorn (4,141 m). After two more rappels, continue on gentle snow descent to the base of the most demanding rocky section of the traverse.

Climb the first rocks until the ridge becomes vertical. The easiest route remains on the left side with gradual ascent, or alternatively, the ridge can be climbed directly in two more challenging pitches. Continue along the ridge, making short climbing sections where needed, until the ridge becomes snow-covered and quickly leads to the summit of the Central Breithorn (4,160 m). Descend to the next saddle and follow a thin snow ridge to reach the summit of the Western Breithorn (4,165 m). The descent follows the normal route of the Western Breithorn.

DETAILS

• Difficulty:

  AD / AD+

• Starting point:

  Rifugio Guide del Cervino, 3,480 m

• Elevation gain / loss:

  ↑ 1,100 m, ↓ 1,100 m

• Estimated duration:

  Day 2 approx. 10 hours

• Requirements:

  excellent physical and mental condition, accustomed to consecutive days of classic mountaineering; ability to move confidently on exposed and mixed terrain

The fee includes: logistical organization, instruction, and accompaniment by a Mountain Guide; use of shared safety equipment. The fee does not include: transfer costs, lifts, meals, accommodation for the Mountain Guide, and anything not listed under “the fee includes.”