Grignetta - cresta Segantini-winter

The Segantini Ridge certainly represents the most beautiful and elegant route to reach the summit of the Grignetta. The W Ridge branches off from the summit and descends through countless towers down to the Pertusio Pass. In reality, the Segantini Ridge proper is climbed starting from the Valsecchi Pass, accessible via the Direttissima trail and the Pagani chimney. The ridge extends for 500 meters, featuring different environments on its two sides, especially early in the season: sunny walls on the south, debris-covered, cold, and snowy ledges on the north.

One of the most well-known and frequented routes in the Grigne, it offers a long and enjoyable climb on solid rock and mixed terrain in a wild setting. Climbing the ridge in winter conditions: in this case, the difficulties increase considerably, as the route includes sharp snow sections, mixed terrain, and snow gullies, providing an interesting ascent with typically alpine characteristics and great satisfaction.

PROGRAM: Departure from Piani Resinelli at 1,300 m, above the town of Ballabio (LC). Follow the Direttissima trail via the Pagani chimney up to Valsecchi Pass at 1,898 m, where the actual Segantini Ridge begins. Climb the 35-meter chimney of grade III to reach a narrow notch on a small terrace, where a belay is set up. From the belay, traverse left to climb the tower wall (small overhang, the most challenging point of the route, III+). Climb past the overhang to reach easier rock just above, arriving at the summit of the tower. Descend the same way following the ridge and climb the next tower, then turn right into a gully. Bypass some towers and descend into a notch to climb the opposite wall. Next, reach a large ledge—at this point, you are on the north face. At one point, you overlook a deep gully, often filled with snow well into the season: this is the “Canalone della Lingua.” Descend into the gully, cross it, and tackle the rocks on the opposite side to regain the ridge line. Traverse a small gully and return to the ridge, following it until a deep, narrow notch appears below. Here, descend with easy climbing into the gully known as “La Ghiacciaia.” From there, climb the vertical rocks and the final section of the ridge to reach the summit of the Grignetta.

DETAILS: Total elevation gain: 1,050 m Ridge elevation gain: 500 m Starting altitude: 1,300 m Summit altitude: 2,184 m Exposure: varies Alpine difficulty: AD (depends on conditions)

INFORMATION: Required fitness level: good physical and mental condition, aerobic training for 1,200 m of positive elevation gain The fee includes: logistical organization, instruction, and accompaniment by a Mountain Guide. Use of shared safety equipment. The fee does not include: transfer expenses, lifts, meals, and accommodation for the Mountain Guide. Anything not listed under “the fee includes.”