Monte Rosa: A Dream Ascent to Capanna Margherita Monte Rosa is a mountain range boasting 13 peaks over 4,000 meters. Capanna Margherita sits atop the rocks of Punta Gnifetti at 4,554 m and is the highest mountain hut in Europe.
Although not technically difficult, the ascent is demanding due to the altitude and high-mountain environment, requiring good physical preparation. The 1,150 meters of elevation gain from Rifugio Mantova, crossing the Lys Glacier, make this climb a true high-altitude dream!
PROGRAM:
Day 1: Morning travel to Alagna Valsesia (VC) or Gressoney la Trinité (AO), general briefing, and equipment check. Transfer via cable lifts to Punta Indren at 3,250 m. Begin the ascent to Rifugio Mantova at 3,500 m via the Indren Glacier, where we will practice crampon walking and rope team management, preparing for the next day’s climb to Capanna Margherita. The elevation gain to the hut is 250 m and will take about one hour. Details: Elevation gain: 250 m – Start altitude: 3,250 m – Hut altitude: 3,490 m – Aspect: south – Alpine difficulty: F
Day 2: Ascent to Capanna Margherita at 4,559 m. At dawn, we will traverse the Lys Glacier, passing the Vincent Pyramid, Balmenhorn, Corno Nero, and Lyskamm to reach Colle del Lys at 4,250 m and then the grand summit: Punta Gnifetti with Europe’s highest hut, Capanna Regina Margherita (where you can enjoy the highest homemade pizza in Europe). Four hours of walking to make a dream come true.
The ascent to Capanna Margherita presents no particular technical difficulties. The entire route is on glacier with moderate slopes. The steepest section (35°) is the final 50 m leading to the summit. Descent follows the ascent route back to Punta Indren, then down to Alagna Valsesia via cable lifts. Details: Elevation gain: 1,150 m – Start altitude: 3,498 m – Summit altitude: 4,559 m – Aspect: south, southwest – Alpine difficulty: F-PD
Physical level required: Good physical and mental condition. Aerobic training recommended for 1,200 m of positive elevation gain.
The fee includes: Logistical organization, guidance and instruction by a certified Alpine Guide, use of shared safety equipment.
The fee does not include: Transfer costs, lifts, meals and accommodation for clients and the Alpine Guide, and anything not listed under “The fee includes.”
Where
Alagna Valsesia (VC), Italy
